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thaneirwin

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thaneirwin last won the day on December 15 2016

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About thaneirwin

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  1. Is it lathe gears dropping into place noises (totally normal) or a strange clicking. Pads on slotted rotors can click and the bolts on the diff have been a common one for people to notice, so give the CV/Driveshaft bolts a look over.
  2. A second hand set of wheels is usually $2-350 depending on tyre condition. Trying to find a single spare might be doable for say $100 otherwise just buy a spare set and sell off the other 3 over time. You will obviously need the donut boot mat at a minimum. Thats about $120 from ebay usually. Look on the facebook 86 buy swap sell pages or perhaps the nsw 86 page.
  3. They work sometimes, but you are really just cheating yourself. Go get a tune and you'll never have the CEL issue ever again.
  4. Well best of luck then. Don't expect to much help with that attitude.
  5. With no location...no idea. I hear Church tuning in California is good. I'm not sure I'd want to tune it since last time you blew an engine through misuse. Add a state to your profile/post and it'll be much easier.
  6. My battery was dead a while back and the normal key worked fine for me. Not sure why yours wouldn't.
  7. Don't forget Nitto Invos in your list. Another of the top tier road tyres. I'm really hoping the PS4 is indeed the sucessor to the PS2 and not a waste of space like I feel the PS3's were. I'd also recommend considering front Camper bolts instead of a tyre size upgrade perhaps. That tad more camber can make a world of difference. Good luck with the purchases.
  8. Well we have a guy here who went from stock suspension to Reds on the exact same track 2 weeks apart. No other changes. He was around 1.5-2 seconds faster through more Camber and more stability. Take what you want from that.
  9. All of which add weight and do nothing for the car. All that bracing is for bling and bling alone.
  10. What do you mean less time? They are cheaper becasue they aren't an upmarked brand name suspension and they don't have to pay the Import duties that those others do. I can assure you that the 86 suspension has 10000% more Effort put into it than anyone else. Not to mention other stuff like the Traction Mod Josh has which greatly helps the cars geometry and there is not a single other company on earth that has made one yet. MCA isn't exactly a new brand. Murray has been doing top Motorsport suspension for 30+ years and Josh has been doing both suspension and competing for most of his adult life.
  11. The MCA's are every bit as good or better than anything else out there. The major difference is valving/spring rates that suits out tracks, testing and heavy RnD (I'd bet money they haven't put as many test miles on the Cusco stuff as Josh has) and local support. You get more for your money with no import markup, no overseas shipping and a local shop that can service or rebuild parts. I'd hate to have to send something to Cusco for a rebuild. Both money and time wise. At our track events its almost rare to see something thats not MCA.
  12. The Recall notice was about 2-3 months ago. They're just been waiting on parts before sending out notices for people to come in. It turns off on track use a fair bit when you go hard enough so it's not unfamiliar, not having power steering.
  13. thaneirwin

    Rattle

    The only thing I could suggest is take a left hand corner at some speed and floor it. If it'll make the noise on a left but not right corner go and pop your bonnet. Then push really hard on the drivers side of the engine and see if you can get it to bang into the subframe. It may be the overpipe hitting the subframe from either a badly made exhaust pipe or a broken front pipe hanger or possibly a soft or worn engine mount. Other than that is need more specifics
  14. I believe most people were quoted about that for those services. Honestly doing it yourself is the way to go. Oil changes and air filters are only like $150 in parts and for 10 minutes work it's worth your time.
  15. The Harrop uses the same internal unit as the Edelbrock overseas does. They seem to have an excellent rep so far. It just depends on if Harrop have screwed the pooch somewhere. I haven't head bad things but the exposure is somewhat limited. The Jackson Racing Supercharger is excellent and perhaps the most reliable of any. They have been extensively track tested. The only barrier there will be if you can get them easily in Aus. HKS and Kraftwerks use the same Rotrex unit as well. The HKS so far is fairly limited in examples but the Kraftwerks is very well known to eat belts like a fat kid on cake. The JR setup is far superior in that sense. Sprintex also make a great little kit. On the turbo front the only one I can reccommend would be the Coyoda. Throttle response is really good and the smaller turbo option makes very good low down boost. Any of the above should tune to around 155-170kw on 98 depending on efficiency. More is possible with more than standard boost/larger pulleys/unsafe tunes. If your tuner has a disney dyno he'll end up with about 200kw. Thats what most peoples figures are but just know those of us in QLD running 30-50kw less will be just as fast/powerful. I'd focus less on a power figure really and just get base boost. It's a nice zone really all round.
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