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steve99

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steve99 last won the day on August 14 2018

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About steve99

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  1. See if you can get dealer to update engine ECU as well a 2012 will have an old ZA1J500G or ZA1J700G rom, you rearly want at least 3 revisions later a ZA1JA01G rom assuming your manual trans. anything earlier than A01G did not have the transient ignition retard mod and they knock a lot on high rpm shifts can cause failure of direct injector seals. always run 98 petrol
  2. their will be heaps of GT rotors out their as most want to ugrade to gts just get another set
  3. Where you getting your ecutek tune ?
  4. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81493
  5. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106068
  6. www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81493
  7. Tunes are done for the specific mods on the car if you change intakes or go from stock header to catless header or otgerway round you should change the tune to match the new nods, changing just the catback wont require a retune. I have ecutek, i might be sble to help you if your in brisbane
  8. Read the DTC error code from ECU this will give you clue as to problem likely cause is faulty wheel speed sensor or wiring also check the brake light switch as this also signals ecu that brake is pressed, ie check brake light operation if this switch is faulty or sticking on or off ecu will throw error codes as it gets confused
  9. go to ebay search for "M18 o2 spacer" They wont work 100% you will likely still throw P0420 occasionally im in brissie ill tune it properly for you for UEL header and disable the cEL for way less than what you think
  10. mate PM me and ill put a pr4opper tune in your car for uel header (includes disabling CEL ) and no locked ECU
  11. If it sat unused for a year or something it might be a problem, but if its been driven every month or so its not going to cause any issue. go on the condition of the car and its service history. dont pay to high a price for a low km car as its still a 2014. and once you put a few km on it it wont be any different. The suspension updates are pretty minor and will not make any substiantial difference to performance on road.
  12. You can tune out the cold start , but after the cold start sequence is completed the loudness is not changeable without changing exhaust. If you have access to tuning device reduce post start ignition timing from -15 to -4 reduce cold idle speeds to 1200 from 1800 reduce the maf correction after start by about 50% in top two rows of in gear and neutral tables any values over 10. this will get rid of the noisy bark and resonance post start, its all to heat up cat in header which you no longer have
  13. As above the standard oft tunes don't start well in cold weather on out high E content E85. quick fix is add 3 or 4 litres of 98 petrol to full tank of E85. proper fix is modify cold start cranking tables in tune The oft petrol tunes suppled for Australian cars are for 98 ron petrol only don't use 95 ron and definitely not 91 ron usa 91 is equlivant to our 98. Stage 2 EL petrol tune is for cars with catless EL header, so don't use on stock car your ok using the stage 2 EL E85 tune on stock car with E85 fuel though. apply to join the facebook group below group has extensively modified oft tunes for most aussie cars for E85 and petrol which will solve all your issues and make more power , even stage 1 petrol www.facebook.com/groups/437544459724108/
  14. Their is a couple of USA turbo kits works and p-tuning that can use the stock or aftermarket standard header. almost all other turbo kits will require the use of a specific exhaust manifold to suit each turbo kit. But would be just easier to sell the khs headers you have if going turbo, If you go supercharger you can keep the standard type headers. If your "not a car guy" and looking for reliability for 6 month trips id say keep your car as is with just tune and header. Extensively modified cars with turbos or SC are inherently less reliable than stock car. not saying they will blow up or break down constantly. But with aftermarket turbo/SC cars you will generally run into the odd issue from time to time with all the extra bits and pieces oil/coolant lines intercoolers sometimes intercooler coolant pumps oil scavenge pumps wiring , external boost controllers etc. Dealers or standard mechanical workshops or roadside assist people will generally have trouble working on them due to the specialised parts and setup. Just buy a standard car with turbo (focus RS/ST WRX etc) Any decent aftermarket turbo or SC setup including fitting and tuning with supporting mods like oil coolers, catch cans etc will set you back 7-10k , SC on the cheaper end. and likely a better clutch.
  15. Some of the early engines did have some problems with spinning bearings or can actuator fail or sealant used to seal engine parts clogging oil passagways causing engine faiures, you might have jist been unlucky. when you say driving at 6000 rpm are you changing gears slowing for corners then accelerating ect or just doing drifts holding rpm constantly at 6000 for 10 minutes or more. If your going to drive the car rearly hard id suggest very good oils like penrite 10 tenths racing probably racing 5 the 5w30 https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products-categs.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=3 and an oil cooler these cars tend to get high oil temps after 10 minutes or more of hard driving in hot conditions especially. but noting will probably stand up to somone just redlining it at a constant 7000 rpm for 15 minutes
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