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Everything posted by TRB086

  1. you wouldn't consider getting Cammo to do proper metal widebody rear guards instead of just slicing up to fit RB ones?
  2. for the relay, one side of the coil goes to the headunit 6V feed (CA+), the other side of the coil goes to the headunit camera ground pin (CGND). The one side of the normally-open switch goes to an ignition switched 12V wire, you can see in my post at the top of the page the wire I spliced for this feed. The other side of the normally-open relay switch goes to the camera's 12V power input. When the headunit energises it's 6V power circuit for the camera, the relay coil is powered... This causes the normally-open switch in the relay to close which in turn provides 12V to the camera.
  3. I also put a Boyo camera in mine, didn't like the bulk of the factory subaru or eclipse camera's. The Boyo setup cost very little in comparison. http://www.86forums.com.au/index.php?/topic/587-wire-diagram-gts-sat-nav-unit/page__st__20
  4. Specs say it's NTSC and PAL: http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/boyo-vtb123hd-flush-mount-camera-cmos.html
  5. The CN4800 plug doesn't show the headunit's built in parking guidelines when reverse is selected. The lines mine shows are the built-in lines from the Boyo camera that can be disabled by cutting out the blue wire in the camera plug. I believe using the CN4950 plug will show the headunit's built-in lines which can be adjusted from the hidden camera setup menu. For the hole, I used a 3mm bit to drill a pilot hole, the supplied holesaw and a deburring tool. The trim is plastic. The camera was purchased from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SF69B0/sr=8-1/qid=1356845581/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1356845581&seller=&sr=8-1 The sumitomo terminals for the white plug in the 86 boot can be purchased from Ballenger Motorsports, this is the female terminal required, a little searching on their site will reveal the matching male terminal: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/1567
  6. I prefer to crimp everything, same way toyota/subaru do joins/splices in their looms. Those insulated crimps are crap though, I cut the uninsulated crimp section off spade terminals etc and use that to make the crimp.
  7. took delivery of the car a couple of weeks ago, my cressida has now been relegated to the backyard
  8. I'll add a bit of info here, I wired in a Boyo camera to my GTS over the weekend. I didn't buy any adapters etc, but I did go to the wreckers on Saturday morning and cut out an instrument cluster loom from a ZZE122 corolla which uses the same terminals as the CN4800 plug. The GTS headunit needs to "see" the camera connected when it's powered on, and the camera power supply from the headunit is a 6V feed. My camera is a 12V camera, so I'm using a mini 6V relay to switch an igntion switched 12V feed to the camera. This ensures the camera is detected when the headunit is powered on and is only powered when in reverse. I ended up using 4x terminals with lengths of wire that came from the corolla loom. 2x from the camera power terminals to the relay coil, and 2x for the shielded video signal wire. I also tapped into the red ignition switched 12V wire which the mini relay triggers in to power the camera. In the CN4800 plug: V+ is the center of the co-ax for the camera signal V- is the co-ax shield from the camera cable CA+ is the 6V power feed for the camera CGND is the ground terminal for the camera's power feed some pics of my setup... Camera installed in the trim: Outside shot: Camera loom integrated into factory boot loom plug using some spare crimp terminals: Camera loom that runs from headunit to the boot lid loom plug: Camera loom clipped into the CN4800 plug and the red ignition 12V wire tapped into the main headunit power plug: Trunk wiring all done:
  9. turbo's in the normal subaru spot, just with a hell of a twist on it
  10. change fuel. As stated in the US thread, the noise is from a washer in the direct injection pump. Some fuels lubricate it better than others.
  11. I think the kit is OK, but the wing is horrid.
  12. Forester's only 260kw atw, cressida is 276kw atw from memory. The clutch slipped on the dyno with the cressida when it was getting tuned, has a 0.82 GT35R so power is on instantly but chokes a little up top. Would make a lot more with a 1.06 rear, cams, twinplate and a free flowing 3.5" exhaust Edit: Dyno graph from when the cressida was initally tuned:
  13. some of the past cars too... Shot showing my 1JZ converted GX81 GT, AE92 4agze sedan, KE70 4agte sedan: KE70 with 4agte: GX70 Wagon with vvti 1jzgte/R154:
  14. Hi Guys, Jason from Brisbane here, I've had many modified toyota's along with a couple of subaru's over the years. I've now got a Manual GTS on order which might be turning up in October. All of my cars get modified, when the GTS gets here I'll start on getting a turbo setup sorted for it. I do all my own fabrication and tuning. My current cars include a 2002 GT forester with a forged EJ257, GT30R, 6 speed, brembo's, Vipec V44 etc... An MX83 with vvti 2JZGTE/GT35R/R154/Vipec v88 etc and most recently I've been building an AE82 Corolla sedan with turbocharged 2zzge run by a Link G4. Have had many 4AG powered cars.. 20Vs, GZE, GTE, FWD or RWD, had a few JZ powered cars too including a GX81 GT chaser and a GX70G Mark II wagon. Looking forward to taking delivery of the GTS so I can figure out turbo placement, what style headers I'll make and what ECU I'll go with for tuning. Some pics of my current and previous cars: Forester: Cressida: Work in progress corolla:
  15. would be good if they could get all the cam's controlled with the Motec
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