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GTS Blonde

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GTS Blonde last won the day on September 11 2018

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About GTS Blonde

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 19

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Interests
    Motor racing and touring, Porsche Club, my beautiful 86 GTS of course, fashion, food & wine (mainly wine), hard rock and ageing disgracefully.

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  1. I was about to say: "Just look for an official Toyota metallic silver confirmation sticker (with a hand written date) on the front section of the driver's side inner door frame" - but I see you found it - so all good!
  2. While I was already on the forum assisting a member with advice regarding the installation of a 'TomTop' automatic open/close module for the side mirrors, here's the result of my search for an outdoor car cover. Turns out an Autotecnica 'Storm Guard' cover from the local Autobarn was the best fit for my factory aero-equipped 86. I've had it on the car for three months now and it has survived gale force winds, heavy rain and even hail, without a drop of water getting through or shifting a centimeter - and no evidence of any ill effect to the paint work. It ticks all the boxes - it fits, is heavy duty, waterproof, fleece-lined and ventilated, comes with security straps, and all for a reasonable $180. For those interested, the details are: Autotecnica 1/186 110g Large 11. PS. For the majority of you without factory aero optioned cars, at a guess, the same cover in Medium size would probably do the trick.
  3. Great outcome Speedisfun, I'm sure you are relieved. If my experience is anything to go by, that cheap little TomTop unit will give you reliable service for years to come (as long as you don't overuse it to amuse yourself ). I'll let my 'other half' know that the information he provided, and that I posted on this thread years ago, continues to benefit 86 owners like yourself doing this upgrade. Glad we could help.
  4. My husband just advised me that, as the fuses are OK, and assuming the unit is not faulty and that the wiring is the same on your LHD car (as on my RHD car), these problems are most likely caused by incorrect connections when the TomTop unit was wired to the car's loom, or loose connections, or a combination of both. He suggests you have a very good look at Post 83, particularly the wiring diagram (which is the correct advice, as it worked for him) and then meticulously go back over everything you have done step by step, testing each function and connection with a test light to hopefully find the incorrect (or maybe even loose) connection or connections. Study the colours very carefully as some of the wires in the car's loom are very similar, as he mentioned in Post 114. Again, he suggests you read his Post 114 about some of the interesting issues he encountered, especially about some choices you have to make with the wiring colours, in particular making sure that you only make the connection to the car's Pink Wire right behind the actual door lock (you will need to add a piece of wire to extend the TomTop wire to reach it). Also, even if all the wiring has been rectified, you may still find the windows are out of sync, which is a common issue. This is usually remedied by the following: 1. Turn ignition on 2. Open both doors 3. Close both doors 4. Turn ignition of, then on again. He wasn't too sure about your minor issue with the mirror control button, which again may be affected by a faulty connection. Since he installed the TomTop unit I have never touched that button again as the mirrors just simply close when i lock either door and open when I hit the start button, as intended. Hopefully this may help you further, otherwise my husband suggests a visit to an auto electrician may be your only alternative (rather than risk costly damage to the electrical system). Once more .. Good Luck from both of us.
  5. You wouldn't think so Speedisfun, but then again, I vaguely recall some discussion on this topic years ago ?? While I have no definitive answer, I have three pieces of advice: 1. If you have not already done so, thoroughly read Posts 79, 80 and 83 in this thread for the best installation details 2. Ditto Post 114 for comments and tips following a successful installation 3. Follow the 'golden rule' advice in Post 114 and always use a test light to identify the correct wires (if the light comes on when you operate a function, it is the correct wire, even on the rare occasion where the colour does not match the installation instructions. Mine's still working perfectly by the way. Good Luck
  6. My husband is the OCD sufferer in this family and there is no cure (although his affliction does come in handy from time to time where car maintenance is concerned). As far as the blonde jokes go, trust me, I've heard them all vur .. my husband's favourite: Why do blondes prefer cars with sunroofs? More legroom!
  7. According to my husband, any 'Killrust'-type paints take far, far longer to dry than normal paints, as they are actually designed to, well, 'kill' the rust during a long curing process. They eventually dry to a hard protective finish like any other paints, thus sealing against further rust developing (or so he says anyway). So if the paint you used took a long time to dry vur, this means you have done it right.
  8. Thanks for the heads-up vur. I just checked out that area on my 2013 GTS (the seal that runs along the front edge of the engine bay between the headlights) and, after folding the seal back, did indeed find one tiny spot of rust on the metal strip that secures the seal to the body. This really surprises me, as my car was purchased new and has been pampered ever since (only 20,000 ks, garaged overnight, not near salty air, always hand-washed with Auto Glym PH neutral shampoo, etc). My husband (the family car expert) had a look and declared it only superficial, but then spent ten minutes on it anyway, eliminating the rust with some emery paper and applying a dab of black 'Killrust' paint with a cotton bud. Congratulations on your eye for detail vur, as I'm sure no body else has spotted it. I guarantee every 86forums member who reads this, especially those with earlier cars, will be folding back that seal to take a peek .
  9. Hi azonic, Looks as if the attachment didn't work first try, so here is Take 2. TomTop - 86 mirrors folding loom.pdf
  10. Hi azonic, The unit is a generic one widely available generally through Chinese online distributors (so TomTop is just one of many distributors, not the manufacturer). I never posted any images, but I will chase up the instruction page that came with the TomTop-supplied unit that my husband successfully installed, plus another page which has a small B&W photo of the unit. At least it may help you confirm if the unit is the generic one that all the installation advice found on this thread refers to. I'll post the attachment separately if it doesn't work with this reply
  11. Hawk is spot on and it does raise a few questions. Some fellow 86 owners who have reached this milestone claim they saved a fortune by sourcing reputable, independent mechanics with WRX credentials. Everything was managed without unbolting the engine or fuel tank, by using bespoke tools (in the same manner that some non-factory specialist Porsche 911 mechanics save their customers a fortune, by using improvised techniques and tools that aren't in the official manuals, when servicing six cylinder boxer engines). Even shopping around the Toyota dealers can save you a lot, as one of my friends discovered when she ended up paying $1,500 after an initial quote from one dealer of $2,500! If you are a city owner, I have also heard that many country-based Toyota dealers will shave the cost of this service considerably, as their overheads are much lower. One city owner I know drove 100 kms to a country dealer and even stayed overnight (so there wouldn't be any pressure to rush the job). The dealer loaned him a free Corolla for the day, he did some sightseeing, enjoyed a couple of meals and the ambience of a local budget motel, picked his 86 up late the next morning, drove back home and still came out well ahead. Hopefully it will be many years before I have to face that "Purse-Killer" 90,000 km service (based on kms, not years, anyway). I have a good personal relationship with the Dealer Principal at my Toyota dealership, who alerted me to the "Big Service" when I purchased the car new nearly five years ago, and said he would look after me when the time came - but I won't know the bottom line until that day comes. In the meantime, I have three "IF" questions: 1. If Subaru trained mechanics have the tools and techniques to carry out this service without the need to shift the engine or fuel tank, do Subaru dealer workshops routinely (or by request) also do it this way for the BRZ? 2. If the answer to Q.1 is yes, is there corresponding savings to be had by taking an 86 a Subaru dealer? 3. If the answer to Q.1 is again yes, why on earth don't Toyota dealers also do it this way and save their customers time and money? Sorry .. too many hypothetical questions this late in the evening
  12. Thanks for confirming everything ZZT86 - you're a gem. Yes that's the factory PDF that I have. Hubby has no excuse now
  13. Thanks Spanners. I saw that video a while back and while installing foam wedges under the parcel shelf may help eliminate minor parcel shelf noises, it wouldn't have any effect on the underlying body panels and spot welds that are the source of the annoying 'clicking, popping' noise being generated in most pre-2014 86's when the car body flexes. Would have been an easy solution ..
  14. Thanks ZZT86. Based on your success, I have finally convinced my husband to have a go at the spot welds in the boot cavity. While he is sensibly taking a position of "all care, no responsibility", he would appreciate your advice on the following before proceeding: 1. With reference to the Service Bulletin, his plan is to work on Spot Weld "A" first and see if that gets a result. If it doesn't, he will then work on Spot Weld "B". If treating those welds still isn't effective, he will look to the remaining welds on the passenger side. Do you agree with this approach? 2. He also wants to know if the intention is to compress the welds or to break them open? 3. With reference to Question 2, he would like to know how much force is needed? 4. Rather than just swinging away with a hammer, he thinks he should hold a ball point hammer against the weld and strike it with another hammer. Do you agree or do you have a better approach? 5. Finally, does he still need to bother prying open the plates and spraying in WD-40 after all this, or is that no longer necessary? Your help is much appreciated. Thanks again
  15. It is not actually caused by the rear parcel shelf itself, but rather by some dodgy spot welds holding together the overlapping body panels situated underneath (primarily on the right-hand side) on pre-2014 models. This allows the panels to move against each other sometimes when the body flexes, creating an annoying creaking or popping sound. Some owners I know just spray WD-40 into the gaps between the panels about every six months or whenever the noise returns (having pried the panels open, they haven't bothered closing the gap to make this easier), while some, like ZZT86, have done the full 'remove rear parcel shelf / panel separation / hammering the spot welds' routine as well, with long term success. Anyway, here's a link to the official Subaru bulletin which explains the whole deal (note that the bulletin is written with left hand steering cars in mind, so the affected panels are best described as being on the passenger side boot / rear parcel shelf area of Australian cars) - 12-140-12
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