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Coolant Smell


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#1
spanners

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Hi , 

I own a 2015 Toyota 86 Gts Auto, I brought it second hand with 12,000 kms from a Toyota dealer in Sydney which was owned by Toyota themselves with full service history. The  car now has 15,000 kms. On a 22 degree and above day with a/c on when I pull up I have a strong coolant smell evident. It never uses water, ive never had to top it up. Its has also never got hot, the guage sits just below half. Ive had Toyota check it out, to which, surprise surprise, there is no leak at the time. The overflow bottle when cold was on the full mark and then obviously rose with the expanding hot water. I read on the bonnet that the level should be between low and full, cold and warm, which I have done by reducing the level. I removed the seal at the rear of the bonnet thinking it would allow for better airflow in the engine bay. All this seemed to have worked for a few weeks but now it seems to have come back slightlty.

 

Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it. I was thinking it could be a thermostat not behaving properly or a coolant water mix over a 50/50 mix.

Or is this just the way the car is? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


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#2
GTS Blonde

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My 2013 GTS auto has never experienced this, even in the most extreme situations such as idling in traffic on 40 degree days with the aircon on full, however I have been in my girlfriend's 86 in similar conditions and have noticed a slight smell of coolant. Said girlfriend has over 80,000 kms on her car and this has never developed into a serious issue. I owned a BMW 318is for over 10 years which had that smell too when either the heater or aircon was operating, but again, never presented as a serious problem in all that time. I remember the BMW mechanic saying that some cars just have the smell because the heater and aircon piping is all interconnected and, while minor weeping can occur when either system is operating, it rarely becomes a major problem. While that doesn't actually solve your issue, it may give you some comfort anyway.



#3
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Hi Gts Blonde,

 

Thanks for the reply. I have spoken to a few people with a 86/ Brz and a Wrx, with the same Fa20 motor, and have all said they dont have this issue also.

 

I forgot to add i'm a mechanic and it is baffling me also.

 

An update on the car. I have had it back to the dealership to be checked out again, they pressure tested the system again and theres no leak, took the car for a drive, there is no stains anywhere and they could not detect a smell. I showed up to collect the car early and they allowed me to take it for a drive for 20 minutes so I could show them the smell. Being 5pm the traffic was heavy so I couldn't give it a hard constant run, showed back to the dealership and no smell. it made me look like a fool. The service advisor told me if it does it and I'm in the area to stop in anytime to show them. Which is good of them.

 

Since it has been there I have not smelt it, and there has  been some hotter days here lately. So I'm not sure if they have done something while it was there and haven't said anything, but I will keep an eye on it and keep my fingers crossed that it stays this way.

 


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#4
GTS Blonde

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Ah! Car niggles - don't you just love 'em!

 

My only niggle is the legendary tapping, clicking sound which regularly emanates from the rear parcel shelf when the body flexes (like when backing out of a sloping driveway or enjoying a sweeping bend). It is caused by a design fault that was supposedly rectified on the production line in 2014. Not enough welds in some structural panels back there was the cause and the fix for pre-2014 cars (according to the Toyota factory bulletin) involved either prying open the panels and spraying oil in between (Stage 1) or taking out the rear parcel shelf and giving the offending welds a gentle wack or two with a hammer and punch (Stage 2). My dealer tried both 'fixes' under warranty but the sound always returned eventually. The dealer finally drew a line in the sand and said there was nothing more he could (or more correctly, was prepared to) do. In spite of what some mechanics claim on the internet, I do not know of any fellow 86 owners (and I know quite a few) who have been able to eliminate the problem entirely. The 86 is such an incredible car overall however - I can live with it.

 

PS. Having said that - if anyone out there has actually solved the old rear parcel shelf noise issue and has a permanent solution - please, oh please share the magic with the rest of us!



#5
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Yeah, there's always niggles. I've never come across the tapping clicking sound. Maybe it got something to do with the sub covering it up.

 

The 86 is an awesome car to drive.

 

Have you got a k&n air filter and if so have you had any issues? I've read the cel comes on and does nothing for the response.

 

Also have you done anything with your exhaust? I am thinking of changing the headers under the motor to reduce the radiant heat but am not interested in the whole tune thing


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#6
GTS Blonde

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Hi Spanners,

 

Yes, the 86 is just an amazing drive and I don't see me parting with mine anytime soon.

 

My only performance related mods are a Perrin 2.5 inch stainless steel cat-back exhaust (non-resonated), which I have had on the car for a few years, and a Perrin silicon inlet hose, which I added recently, partly to dispense with that silly sound generator, which was superfluous anyway after the cat-back was added. The combination of these two conservative mods has definitely made the car more responsive and even seems to have helped the mid-range flat spot slightly (if you believe Perrin's dyno claims, the combination of these mods delivers about 10 extra HP). I can recommend both these US-manufactured upgrades, which are available through Queensland-based 'CarMods Australia.



#7
spanners

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Hey Gts Blonde,

 

ok cool, I plugged the sound tube off but unplugged it. I missed the sound too much. Although I'm told there is too much background noise when I'm on hands free.


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#8
ZZT86

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Hachi Rocku never stinks of coolant so can only think it was overfilled & as such it purged itself level.

 

@GTS Blonde - you talkn about the popping ? I used the Subaru TSB which basically called for a hammer & silicon spray from memory - worked a treat :)


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#9
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That's the same TSB that my Toyota workshop claims they followed under warranty (both options), but unfortunately they obviously were not as thorough as you ZZT86 as the popping eventually returned.

 

I have  a printout of that TSB and even suggested to my hubby (who is pretty capable around an automobile) that he might like to have a go with a hammer and some silicon spray to see if he could achieve a result.

 

However, as he read the bit about the possibility of breaking the rear window on my baby, so far he has wimped out .. probably a wise decision on his part actually ..  :P 



#10
ZZT86

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I don't think there's any possibility of breaking anything accept a spot weld or few . . . . give it a try ;)


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#11
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I can't understand how they think hitting it with a hammer and spraying silicone spray will stop the parcel shelf from making noise?

 

What's the idea behind that?


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#12
GTS Blonde

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It is not actually caused by the rear parcel shelf itself, but rather by some dodgy spot welds holding together the overlapping body panels situated underneath (primarily on the right-hand side) on pre-2014 models. This allows the panels to move against each other sometimes when the body flexes, creating an annoying creaking or popping sound. Some owners I know just spray WD-40 into the gaps between the panels about every six months or whenever the noise returns (having pried the panels open, they haven't bothered closing the gap to make this easier), while some, like ZZT86, have done the full 'remove rear parcel shelf / panel separation / hammering the spot welds' routine as well, with long term success. Anyway, here's a link to the official Subaru bulletin which explains the whole deal (note that the bulletin is written with left hand steering cars in mind, so the affected panels are best described as being on the passenger side boot / rear parcel shelf area of Australian cars) -  12-140-12


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#13
ZZT86

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^^ Correctamundo !

 

Although most of my interior has been out for wiring/sound deadening & acoustic lining, I didn't bother with the parcel shelf when I cracked open the suspect spot welds, etc - I did it all thru the boot cavity. My car only started to pop after I swapped the springs & lowered it (after about 2 years & 40K kms) making it 15-20% firmer which was enough to provoke it despite my mostly smooth road/freeway driving. It's worked a treat so far.


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#14
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^^ Correctamundo !

 

Although most of my interior has been out for wiring/sound deadening & acoustic lining, I didn't bother with the parcel shelf when I cracked open the suspect spot welds, etc - I did it all thru the boot cavity. My car only started to pop after I swapped the springs & lowered it (after about 2 years & 40K kms) making it 15-20% firmer which was enough to provoke it despite my mostly smooth road/freeway driving. It's worked a treat so far.

Thanks ZZT86.

 

Based on your success, I have finally convinced my husband to have a go at the spot welds in the boot cavity. While he is sensibly taking a position of "all care, no responsibility", he would appreciate your advice on the following before proceeding:

 

1. With reference to the Service Bulletin, his plan is to work on Spot Weld "A" first and see if that gets a result. If it doesn't, he will then work on Spot Weld "B". If treating those welds still isn't effective, he will look to the remaining welds on the passenger side. Do you agree with this approach?

2. He also wants to know if the intention is to compress the welds or to break them open?

3. With reference to Question 2, he would like to know how much force is needed?

4. Rather than just swinging away with a hammer, he thinks he should hold a ball point hammer against the weld and strike it with another hammer. Do you agree or do you have a better approach?

5. Finally, does he still need to bother prying open the plates and spraying in WD-40 after all this, or is that no longer necessary?

 

Your help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks again



#15
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I've just seen there is a video put up in 'Do It Yourself DIY Videos  Gts Blonde. Maybe watch that.

 

The other thing i've noticed in  my car is if I'm stopped with the front wheels turned left or right, i get a slight vibration for a split second when taking off. Just thinking it could be the limited slip doing its thing.


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#16
ZZT86

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@GTS Blonde 

 

1: According to my records all I had to do was crack open weld 'A' on our passenger side & spray a sh1t load of white lithium grease everywhere in the zone :)

2: Crack them open

3: Not much, you will know when it's done

4: Correct, I think I even used a towel b/w the hammer & car body to prevent paint damage & if damaged just touch it up

5: All I did was follow Case1 as listed in this PDF which you may have, it has worked since 14 May 2016 ;)

 

Have confidence, it's easy & it should work.

 

Attached Files


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#17
GTS Blonde

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I've just seen there is a video put up in 'Do It Yourself DIY Videos  Gts Blonde. Maybe watch that.

 

The other thing i've noticed in  my car is if I'm stopped with the front wheels turned left or right, i get a slight vibration for a split second when taking off. Just thinking it could be the limited slip doing its thing.

Thanks Spanners. I saw that video a while back and while installing foam wedges under the parcel shelf may help eliminate minor parcel shelf noises, it wouldn't have any effect on the underlying body panels and spot welds that are the source of the annoying 'clicking, popping' noise being generated in most pre-2014 86's when the car body flexes. Would have been an easy solution .. :)



#18
GTS Blonde

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@GTS Blonde 

 

1: According to my records all I had to do was crack open weld 'A' on our passenger side & spray a sh1t load of white lithium grease everywhere in the zone :)

2: Crack them open

3: Not much, you will know when it's done

4: Correct, I think I even used a towel b/w the hammer & car body to prevent paint damage & if damaged just touch it up

5: All I did was follow Case1 as listed in this PDF which you may have, it has worked since 14 May 2016 ;)

 

Have confidence, it's easy & it should work.

Thanks for confirming everything ZZT86 - you're a gem. Yes that's the factory PDF that I have. Hubby has no excuse now ;)



#19
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Has anybody put soundskins in their doors and if so, does it make a difference to the speakers and the outside noise?



#20
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Soundskins sound deadening update;

 

I had it installed in the doors on the weekend, with the speakers it improved them a tad, as for the outside  noise it has cut it down like you wouldn't believe. Being on hands free i have been told there is not a lot of background noise!!!!!!!!!






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