This one is mostly thanks to HAWK's DIY, that showed how to make the PARKING LIGHT "V" independent of the FOG LIGHT. I have included some of HAWK's images in this DIY as a number of things were identical and he did such a good job, I borrowed his images
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This guide is for those who have purchased an aftermarket Valenti lights.. These are available here:
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Time required: around an hour
What you need:
Philips Screw driver
Flat screw driver (for the fitting to the car stage, refer to the other DIY)
Splice connectors (or you can solder these in if you dont want to use the splice connectors)
2m of coloured wire (I just grabbed a small roll of orange wire from Jaycar)
Since I race my car, I wanted to take it a step further and still retain the "TRIPLE FLASH" of the foglight "triangle" when the brakes are applied (F1 car style )
My initial plan was to make it so that this functionality would completely replace the foglight altogether, however on the track in the rain, or in inclement weather the foglight could actually be useful, not to mention for roadworthy purposes it may still be needed if the cops were being jackasses. I also was not sure how bright the foglight was at the back of the car, and was a bit concerned that having it act as a flashing brakelight ALL THE TIME could be annoying to commuters behind me. I will still gloss over how to enable that functionality though if anyone is keen.
The Valenti light has the following sections:
"The V" (factory this comes on with the foglight)
"The Triangle" (this acts as the foglight)
"Reverse lights" (self explanatory)
Anyway, there are a few options here:
1) "V" on with the foglight only, Foglight flashing when brake applied (this is the factory Valenti option)
2) "V" on with the parkers, Triangle on with the foglight switch
3) "V" on with the parkers, Triangle on with foglight switch, Triangle flashing with the brakes (only when the foglight is on)
4) "V on with the parkers", Triangle acting as an extra low level brake light that does the "triple flash" whenever you hit the anchors (but no longer acts as a foglight)
5) "V" on with the parkers, Triangle acting as an extra low level brake light that does the "triple flash" whenever you hit the anchors, AND ALSO triangle as a foglight
Option 1 is the factory Valenti option. No modification required. Just splice the extra red wire into your brake lights.
Option 2 requires only to follow HAWK's thread here: http://www.86forums....tion-light-mod/
Option 3 will require an extra wire (as per this DIY). This is the option that I did personally, so I will step you through it.
Option 4 will not require an extra wire, but you would need to jumper the FLASHER to the FOG inside the Valenti unit, and then remove the FOG wire from the harness inside the cabin and splice that into your BRAKE light wire instead of the fog wire.
Option 5 would require an extra wire (as per this DIY), AS WELL AS a diode to stop feedback from the foglight lighting up your brake lights. If this needs explanation, then I probably suggest you skip over option 5 and just go with the simple stuff Otherwise you will end up with brake lights turning on when your fog lights are on and so forth.
Now I had already done HAWK's modification, so I could have just left the red wire where it was (attached to the flasher), but I had snipped the "V" wire and connected it to that.. Instead of doing that, you can leave the RED wire on the flasher, and just ADD another wire to use for Hawk's parker modification.
Here is how to do OPTION 3:
1) Open up the light (first few pics of this process are credit to HAWKs guide)
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2) There is already provision for a 4th wire into the fog/reverse assembly, however it does not go all the way through. Just use a blade to make it so it goes all the way through
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3) Measure the bit of wire you want to make it so it is the same length as the "red" wire already on the Valenti fog/reverse module, cut it to length and then feed your wire down the tube. This is a bit of a pain and takes the longest.. I fed it down around 20cm at a time, and then made a small incision so I could pull it through and feed the next 20cm. Do this til you have it all the way to the other end. If you cheated like me and made the incisions, be sure to use electrical tape to cover up the incisions you make. With enough patience you may be able to do the whole stretch without cuts, but I am lazy
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4) Snip the "V" CCFL connector and solder it to the extra wire you just fed through. In the image you will see that I soldered it the new wire to the "flasher" instead. This is because as I mentioned earlier, I already had done HAWK's modification. If you do my modification from the start, you dont need to snip the red wire at all, as it will already connect to the flasher. Either way, all you need to make sure is the following: 1x wire goes to the flasher, 1x wire goes to the CCFL "V". You need to snip the Blue "V" wire so it is no longer connected to the FOG light inside the housing. This is explained in Hawk's DIY, and his pic is here:
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Please remember that in Hawk's diagrams he connects the BLUE "V" wire to the "special red" wire. We don't need to do that, we can just solder the blue "V" wire directly to our new wire (in my diagrams, the orange wire we just threaded into the housing). So in these pics, just imagine that is what we have done, and disregard the colours of the wires here
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Again, please do not be confused by the images above, just imagine that my orange wire is going to the "V" and the red wire is going to it's original spot on the flasher. It is only because I had already modified my lights that there was a bit of a switcheroo going on there.
5) Get a power supply and test the wires do what they are supposed to.. A) Test the new wire activates the "V", test the Foglight wire activates the triangle, then C) with the Foglight AND the "special red" wire BOTH connected, the triangle should flash three times (simulating the brake coming on)
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6) Now reassemble the unit, making sure you dont trap any of the wires in the screws. You can tape them out of the way if you like, I didn't bother.
7) Now go to your car and follow the instructions for removing the reverse/foglight here: http://www.86forums....ts-removerefit/
8) Once you have fitted up the new light into place, thread the loom into the cabin (on the left hand side of the boot).
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9) Pull the loom until you get to the rubber bung, then push that into place til its locked in and sealing the boot nicely.
10) Plug the loom into the connector (dont worry about the two extra wires just yet), and test that everything is working.. Reverse and fog is all you can test for now until the two extra wires and spliced in.
11) Remove the extra trim on the left hand side of the boot behind the tail light so you can access the plug into the tail light.. Same process here just use a flat blade to pop the clip off.
12) Unplug the tail light plugs (I have Valenti tail lights in mine, so decided rather than splicing into the factory loom, I would splice into the Valenti loom. I should have added some bullet connectors here but I didn't have any handy. This would mean that if I needed to remove the tails in future, I wouldnt need to remove the splicing. I will go back and add bullet connectors at a later date. Thanks to Hawk's instructions I was able to identify the PARK and BRAKE lights on the factory loom. The colours change when they go into the Valenti tails, but you can easily work out which one to splice into.
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13) Now I used splice connectors to cut into the park and brake lights. I don't really like using splice connectors, but its the quickest way of doing it. A better way would be to solder extra female bullet connectors in there, but I wanted to be able to revert later. What's mostly important with splice connectors is ensuring a good connection.
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And now are are done!!
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I have made a daytime and nighttime video of this which I will upload shortly.