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#13557 VERTEX Lip Kits ( Genuine )

Posted by Caldine on 27 February 2013 - 10:42 AM

For those of you who haven't scrolled through our who is post , we are also the Distributors for both Australia and New Zealand for VERTEX Japan , T & E Products .

Vertex are renown Worldwide prodominately for Body Kits , but they also do a big range of lighting upgrades , steering wheels etc . We are about to place an order with them  in the next week or so , and we want to gauge your interest in their current lip kit for the 86.

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Full Set Front Lip , Side Skirts and Rear Protector Set . NZ $ 1085.00 Approx AUD $ 875.00

Individual parts .

Front Lip. NZ $ 360.00 Approx AUD $ 290.00
Side Skirts . NZ $ 475.00 Approx AUD $ 385.00
Rear Protector set .  NZ $ 330.00 Approx AUD $ 270.00

I am just enquiring with T & E about shipping direct to the customer . I should hopefully have this information and pricing available shortly .
  • Sutty, lame duck, heashSealia and 14 others like this

#22014 Why should he have all the fun!

Posted by GTS Blonde on 01 July 2013 - 09:25 PM

Hi 86Forums Members,


As a newbie to 86Forums, I watched that tongue in cheek (I hope) video on the site featuring the ladies throwing a mental about their partners buying a supposedly midlife crisis Toyota 86. While I'm sure some women may act this way, when my husband started an ongoing affair with a Porsche 930 back in 1998, I took the other option and joined him in his Porsche Club social activities (a lot of fun as it turned out) and at his track days (not so much fun as it turned out), and bided my time.


Much to his dismay, when the time came for me to have my crisis, I decided to tread my own path. While many second hand Porsches were suggested by him, I fell for the 86. After all, it is sexy, the motoring community loves it (Car of the Year and all that), it is a purpose built sports car, it would be brand new and affordable, with a lovely three year warranty and fixed price servicing (I've seen his mechanic's bills .. Ha! Ha!). A friend in the motor trade helped out and in April I took delivery of a Metallic Sonic Blue 86 GTS auto with the aero option. While adding all the fruit hit the purse a bit harder, it was worth every cent. Hubby admitted defeat and even conspired with the dealer for some slim line colour coded custom plates as a nice surprise when it was delivered - 'FT8686'. After a few drives even he gave it the highest compliment - "It feel's very Porsche-like actually!"


Now of course he has taken an interest and the 86 already sports a slim line front plate mount, LED number plate lights and reversing lights courtesy of StreetFX  (he knew proprietor Mark through some Porsche Club dealings) and some tasteful chrome GTS letters for the other side of the boot (purchased online from California). Seeing I'm not really a Drifting sort of girl, he is already talking to his Yokohama motor racing supplier about replacing what he calls "those appalling Prius tyres" with the widest most grippy street legal tyres in their inventory that will fit on the existing wheels. I have heard the words ADVAN 'Neova', 225 or 235, and something like 'close to rolling radius' but I'll  leave that technical stuff to him. If any of you experienced owners have any suggestions about what he is doing with the tyres, please let me know. He said we can store the 'Prius tyres' and refit them when I sell the car. I am a bit worried he may be subtly setting it up for some track time (over my dead body). Anyway, now I have my own contacts with you guys so don't be afraid to give me your opinions. As the topic title suggests - why should he have all the fun (or think he knows everything?).


Oh yes, the boring personal details: I'm Finnish (yeah - typical blonde, blue eyes, pale as a flour mill worker), I'm in law enforcement (no further correspondence will be entered into - but relax, you won't find me in your rear view), I'm ageing disgracefully (definitely no futher correspondence etc) and I live in Melbourne. And yes - I am just loving the car. I'll attach some photo's when I work out how to shrink them down - mine are all 4MB and I'm no geek .. I'm a blonde afterall .. advice anyone?


Cheers Kris

  • wtf, DjCoopAss, Bren and 13 others like this

#10753 What have you done to your 86/BRZ today?

Posted by Method on 03 January 2013 - 01:03 AM

A thread where you can tell us/show us all what you have done to your 86 or BRZ.

Can be anything from an engine pull to simply cleaning it/ driving it. Whatever it is show us!

Hopefully this will get us more actively involved in what we are all doing and sharing the little tips and tricks we have discovered while playing with this wonderful machine..

Ill get the ball rolling with what i did today....

Installed a set of BC Coilovers and some 18x9.5's..

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  • DjCoopAss, Agent86, lame duck and 13 others like this

#10238 We are now Opti-Coat dealers!

Posted by Solar Style Window Tinting on 18 December 2012 - 04:21 PM

Hi guys,

most of you who have done your research will have heard of the Opti-Coat paint protection product. Here is information on the product and more is available at

Opti-Coat is a hard wearing, ceramic clear coat for superior resistance to scratching (9H) and protection from chemical etching due to environmental impacts.
The Opti-Coat pre-polymer cross links, and forms a continuous protective film on the painted surface it is applied to, similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish.
Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive paint coating in use. It provides permanent protection for all modern factory paints and can also be used to protect metal and hard plastic surfaces.

What makes Opti-Coat different?

Opti-Coat is not a paint protection wax or sealant that will wash away, or break down over time. Opti-Coat bonds permanently with the factory coating, protecting the surface indefinitely and will not delaminate.
A single layer of Optimum Clear Coating measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. When compared to other paint protection products, Opti-Coat is more than 100 times thicker, with tests showing a wax coating measuring less than 0.02 microns.
This allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved.
Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings.
Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained.

Opti-Coat is tested and proven by the Commonwealth Scientific & Industrial Research Organisation for Chemical and Scratch Resistance. Please see attached PDF document for the results.

Attached Files

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#21027 16/06/13 86/BRZ Birthday meet QLD

Posted by mikalow86 on 18 June 2013 - 01:07 PM

Hey guys just some pics from the event. (55 cars turned up another QLD/national record!)


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Thanks to everyone who helped to put this event together and hopefully next one will be bigger and better :). Anyone else who got pics from the event please put them up.

  • ub78, lame duck, Reans and 11 others like this

#15892 $146 Worth Photo Shoot

Posted by Pengasus on 03 April 2013 - 06:41 AM

When i was paying the fine at the post office, lady at the counter said "oh, that's a nice picture".
I guess that's one way of looking at it...

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#12262 DIY - 86/BRZ Auto-fold Side Mirrors

Posted by Outsider on 23 January 2013 - 08:56 PM

Hi all,

Took some (extremely rough) pics while installing my 86/BRZ auto-fold side mirror kit, so thought I would do a quick write-up as I could not find any info online on how to do this. As the product suggest, this allows the mirrors to automatically fold in upon pressing the lock button (Or swiping the sensor on the door handle for GTS owners). Then automatically unfold when the car is switched to accessories prior to starting the vehicle.

WARNING: Do this mod at your own risk, I am 100% NOT qualified in anything relating to vehicle electronics and completed this all by guess work :P

Note: A quick thank-you to @Agent86 for picking the kit up for me whilst at Garage88!

Estimated Time: Aprox 15mins

Tools Required:
-Phillips Head screwdriver
-Flat head screwdriver

This is how the kit arrives, included is a complete 'plug-and-play' loom setup with the auto-fold module, plus a few zipties, doublesided tape and a page of Japanese to admire, of which I have no-idea how to interpret....


Step 1: Removing the drivers side door card.


This is done by first using a flat head screw driver to pop open the small cap behind the door handle. A phillips head screw can then be removed.


Next, the plastic cover piece on the arm rest needs to be removed. This is held on by clips and a small lip at the top. So use a small amount of force and from the bottom-up.


Next, is this black clip thingy (No clue what it's actually called hah), use a flat head screw driver to remove.


The door card is now just held on by clips around the perimeter of the door, which simply pop out when a small amount of force is applied.


Unplug the clips to the stock switches and unhook the door handle cables and you will now have complete access to the door.


Now it is as straight forward as connecting the corresponding plugs to one another.


Next unplug the clip which connects the door locking mechanism.

9.JPG Auto mirror wire tap 2.jpg Added for clarity.

Now, using the final remaining black wire which runs from the automatic-fold module, split this wire into the pinkish/red wire of the door locking mechanism. (NOT the yellow wire like pictured). The black plastic piece supplied is folded and splits into this wire without the need of any cutting/splitting/soldiering.


10.JPG Auto mirror wire tap 1.jpg Added to illustrate the best route for the wire. 

Finally, attempt to neaten up the wires with the zip-ties provided. Tape the black module box to an area of the door card which will not be affected when re-installed.


Finally, re-install the door card.

Excuse the lack of clarity, found it rather difficult to put into writing what was involved, but it really is a straight forward mod. Happy to expand on anything if anyone has any questions.

  • eightsix, Sweep, Sutty and 11 others like this

#11316 Off Topic Discussions

Posted by Prayamanti on 11 January 2013 - 08:54 AM

Spam Thread talk about what ever you want guys!!!

let me start

does anyone also think this s15 is well over priced?

  • Stomeorry, GinoEffobia, Blubbence and 11 others like this

#7852 TRD Cabin Sound Tubes

Posted by Sweep on 10 November 2012 - 08:02 PM


There have been a lot of questions regarding the TRD Cabin Sound tubes about what they do and getting more information about these mysterious tubes. I hope I can de-mystify them for you and if you have any questions let me know. I am hoping to give you some comparison via video.

I thought I would start off by giving a brief description of each tube in the kit. (From Silent to Loud)
And then give a DIY guide for installation with PICs etc.

The Blue tube is Quiet as the tube is infact blocked completely. I hear you saying that you might as well remove the whole cabin noise kit from the engine bay. If you do this the engine will sound a little lame without an intake. With the blue tube you still get a resonance sound its just very quiet.

The Green tube is louder than the stock (white) tube by about 50% with a little more growl down low.

The Red tube is the loudest and by about 100% (so twice as loud) and there is a noticable growl across the rev range with an absolute howl in the top end.


Installation Time: Approx 15-20mins
Difficulty: Easy

1. Tools you will need:

12mm Socket
Pliers (Clip or Needle Nose are best)

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2. Using the 12mm Socket, undo the Drivers side strut to chassis brace. There are 3 nuts and 1 bolt to remove and lift it from the engine bay (Please note: if you have incy wincy baby hands you could get away without removing the strut brace)

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3. You will see a Pipe like the one pictured below this is the pipe we are disconnecting from the cabin, but not from the join you can see in the image. It is actually very easy to see and get too once the strut brace is removed.

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4. OK so this is the area where we will be disconnecting the pipe. I apologise for the lack of a decent photo here however the camera will not go down there. So you can see the steering column, and the pipe we are talking about, entering the hole in the firewall. Feel the pipe down to where it meets a rubber grommet and pull it so you can free the pipe. (Bear in mind you may get grease from the steering column on your hand so make sure you have a rag or your wife's best towels to wipe your hands on.

A mate of mine also mentioned that you could push the tube out from the inside of the cabin, do at your own risk but it might make things easier for getting it out but if you slip and cut, pinch or basically destroy the grommet, its your own fault.

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5. Once you have freed the pipe end bring it out into plain sight and this is what you should see.

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6. Using your pliers squeeze the 2 tabs of the pipe clamp to expand the clamp and move it down the pipe away from the sound tube (White thing). Now hold the tube and twist the white sound tube back and forth while trying to pull it from the pipe.  

7. Once you have removed the white sound tube, grab the TRD sound generator tube of your choice, and make sure you position it so that the end of the sound generator tube with the TRD logo on it is not the end you are putting into the pipe (like the image below). Now twist the sound tube so the plastic seam is in line with the white line on the black pipe. This will make sure that the orientation is correct when installing back into the firewall grommet. Then return the pipe clamp back to its original position.

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8. Now put the pipe back into the grommet in the firewall, if you are having issues finding it it is under the steering column. You can feel for the grommet with your fingers to get an idea of where the hole is first (Done this before have we?) and then insert the pipe into the grommet, ensuring that the tube is inserted all the way up to the collar on the sound generator. Now duck around to the cabin and behind the pedals pull back the edge of the carpet and you shoud see something like this.

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9. After your finished admiring your hole, you can put the strut brace back on, make sure all tools are clear of the engine bay and drop the hood. Now jump in your car and enjoy.


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  • stitch, Nafe, Panman and 10 others like this

#21474 New CUSCO Carbon Products

Posted by Caldine on 25 June 2013 - 01:32 PM

Cusco have just released some Carbon bits and pieces for 86 / BRZ . 


Pre-Order offer ( 20 % off ) is valid until the 20th July 2013 ( orders being placed the week after )

Any questions , pls don't hesitate to ask .
GST not aplicable to Australian orders .



  • heashSealia, elerceacaps, phitomooptine and 10 others like this

#17980 Barricade Decepticon 86

Posted by Blue8T6 on 08 May 2013 - 01:16 PM

Our comms were down at work so I spent my time doing a bad photoshop of a black 86 to make it look like the Decepticon Barricade.  A part of me wishes I'd gotten a black 86 now so that I could do this to it lol  Would love to see someone do one IRL !

Just putting it up to share ( I know my photoshopping skills are immensely subpar!)

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#17775 My input into this thread is ceasing

Posted by Sutty on 06 May 2013 - 08:42 AM


Due to a change in circumstances at work I no longer have the time to dedicate to this thread.
I have requested that this part of the forums be locked.
I will still be around the forums and as active as possible but any new thread posted in here will not be responded to by me.
Thanks for all of your great questions and support whilst I was able to help in this part of the forums.
Happy and safe driving

  • eightsix, RAN94A, WR BRZ and 10 others like this


Posted by Caldine on 11 March 2013 - 03:14 PM

Hello Forum members . I have just received limited numbers of TRD Mechanical 2 Way LSD Centers . I have reserved 10 units only for 86Forums members  .

This offer is very unlikely to ever  be repeated .

Part Number 41301-ZN600 .

Forum Member Price  AUD $ 850 Delivered .

This is probably AUD $ 600.00 cheaper than you will find anywhere else on the net .

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Conditions :

Only one per customer .

You must be a registered 86forums member . If you can't provide a current forum registration name , no sale .

Orders / enquiries only taken from HERE

Delivery will be done by EMS ( 3 - 4 days ) once payment has received .

Offer expires when all sold or until 11th April 2013.

Cheers .
  • elerceacaps, phitomooptine, Foorronisap and 10 others like this

#27331 StreetFX.com.au Rocket Bunny Widebody 500hp FA20 Turbo 86 build thread.

Posted by wtf on 12 October 2013 - 03:27 PM

Hey guys,


Since things are heating up over here and the car has undergone some significant changes, and even more to come, I have started a new thread.



You will need to be logged in to see the pictures. Click the icon to enlarge them



I will recap some of the previous mods but will focus mostly on what is coming. I will also link to any DIYs and product supplies throughout the build, as well as where we got specific work done, as a number of companies put in a lot of time and effort helping us get this car set up, which we greatly appreciate!



The engine is currently at the builders getting sleeved, forged lower compression pistons, forged rods, and a bunch of other work which I will get pictures of as soon as the internals arrive from overseas.


A lot of the parts listed in this build are available from our store here:





Picture of current vehicle status (20-January, car painted - but it will be getting repainted as I have changed my mind about the final colour finish, test fitting rims):








Last "car still together" picture prior: 





Anyway, here is a list of modifications to date (updated 12-Oct-2013)


2012 Toyota 86 GTS

  • AVO Turbo kit
  • AVO Dump pipe
  • AVO front mount intercooler
  • Perrin cold air intake
  • EcuTek ECU with AVO stage 1 tune
  • MCA "Red Series" coilovers
  • Invidia titanium tipped exhaust
  • Invidia front pipe/cat
  • Perrin overpipe
  • HKS Oil cooler kit
  • BRZ Side fender garnishes
  • Concave concepts CC03 19x9.5in rims
  • Toyo Proxes R888 235/35/19 semi slicks
  • StreetFX slimline license plate bracket
  • StreetFX LED upgrade (inside and out\
  • AP Racing brakes front and rear
  • Cusco Front strut brace
  • Cusco Rear Strut brace
  • Cusco front and rear tow hooks
  • Perrin transmission support mount
  • TRD Bodykit (front/side/rear/boot lip)
  • 24LED License plate light modules
  • CaFi 62100 Android head unit with OBD2 interface
  • Valenti "SG" Tail lights
  • Valenti "SG" foglight/reverse light with StreetFX brakelight modification
  • Beatsonic sharkfin roof antenna
  • StreetFX chrome mirror indicator bulbs
  • Hertz 3-way front splits
  • Hertz 10" sub in Hertz box
  • Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) interfaced with head unit video feed
  • Mongoose reverse camera
  • JPM Coachworks instrument gauge cluster cover
  • Rocket Bunny Widebody Kit



Purchased but not yet fitted:


  • Spare engine currently being built (sleeved, forged low comp pistons, forged rods, balanced and blueprinted etc)
  • JPM Coachworks handbrake boot
  • JPM Coachworks gear boot
  • JPM Coachworks speaker surrounds
  • JPM Coachworks kneepads
  • Seibon Carbon Fibre bonnet
  • Rocket Bunny Wing
  • TRD 2 way LSD
  • Cusco rear camber arms
  • FBM V-Band turbo manifold
  • FBM slimline fans
  • FBM dump pipe
  • FBM Intercooler piping
  • Injector Dynamics ID1000 1000cc injectors with adapters
  • AVO Catch can and PCV
  • Forgestar custom wheels (19in street)
  • CC02 custom wheels (18in track)
  • Tial V-Band 44mm wastegate
  • Tial BOV
  • Beatrush catch can (I dont like the look of the AVO one)
  • Fuel pump
  • Koyo Radiator
  • Bayside Autostyling 10in subwoofer enclosures (one for each side of the boot)
  • ​GFB Lightweight pulley set
  • Greddy Evo 3 Exhaust
  • Motiv Concepts overpipe
  • Pair of Hertz 10in subs for boot install


Things still required/not decided on:

  • Final ECU Solution
  • Intercooler
  • Turbocharger selection
  • Seibon CSL style Bootlid 
  • May change to 5x114.3 with an adapter kit



List of contributors to the project:

  • Option 1 Garage
  • MVP Motorsports
  • CarMods Australia
  • Import Monster
  • Solar Style Window Tinting
  • NorthShore Toyota
  • AudioExpress Brisbane
  • MCA suspension
  • Camerons Bodyworks
  • OnTheRun Motorsports
  • Hertz Audio
  • Full Blown Motorsports
  • Bayside Autostyling
  • GFB Australia



Things I liked along the way:

  • The turbo kit, even at 4psi gave the car MASSIVE boost to driving joy, while not blindingly fast, it made the car feel like it should have from stock. Mountain driving in 3rd/4th gear instead of downshifting to 2nd constantly
  • The help offered by all the companies listed above, especially Option 1 Garage who has had to put up with me turning up repeatedly trying to last minute tweaks to the car every now and then :P Also MVP Motorsports in the USA who have been bending over backwards to try express ship us parts for the new stage.
  • Achilles 123S tyres = WICKED for the price!
  • I love the MCA Suspension, massive thanks to Josh and Murray Coote, you guys rock :D



Things I have found along the journey that I dont like:

  • Perrin overpipe (even after modification) fouls the cross member and vibrates against it (annoying!)
  • Invidia Exhaust tips sit too far in when coupled with the TRD rear bar
  • The exhaust setup really needs a flex pipe or something, we have blown out gaskets and now the car sounds like a truck
  • The invidia and perrin exhaust parts are not directly compatible, we had to kind of rejig the components to fit to each other (different types of flanges)
  • Removing the stock fog light assembly is a bitch
  • Without a catch can, the turbo kit causes blow-by and oil in the intake, upon research it would seem the factory PCV (crankcase valve) is not boost compatible, so this should be changed. 
  • My ABS/Traction/Stability randomly turns off - could be related to the EcuTek or the 
  • When I bought the AVO Turbo kit, it took a day to get MRT to unlock the license for the AVO tune (frustrating when I was trying to get the car on the road, would have been nice if the tune was unlocked as soon as it had sold).
  • Toyota Motor Australia have terrible customer service - the car has a few quirks that they refused to acknowledge right at the start, these include - faltering idle, passenger window auto scroll sometimes doesnt work, the direct injection pump 'cricket chirp', to name a few.
  • I hate the factory 'idiot proof' navigation that doesnt let you set a destination while the car is in motion
  • GReddy took FKN FOREVER to ship the Rocket Bunny kit (waited 6 months from date of payment)
  • The Invidia exhaust is too quiet for my liking, also the diameter of pipes narrower than I would have liked for a turbo application




9/July/2012: Stock, this is the day I picked the innocent little thing up.. Little did she know what was in for her :) 





As soon as we got the car, we changed little things like the interior/exterior lights, badges, changed to BRZ garnishes and of course ditched that horrible factory license plate bracket etc..


















We also changed to LED indicators to get rid of the orange..







We now run chrome indicator bulbs instead of LEDs on the front/side.


We also now run 24LED replacement numberplate light modules, as some people complained that personalised plates with frames obstructed the factory lights.





DIY Installation guides for some of these parts are available here: 


[DIY] Installing the StreetFX slimline numberplate mount/bracket


86 GTS / BRZ 6000k HID upgrade with Philips D4S (no more hint of yellow, plus brighter!)


License Plate LED light upgrade, step by step guide (GT and GTS)


Boot/Trunk LED light upgrade, step by step guide (GT and GTS)


DIY 86 GT GTS ZN6 BRZ reverse lights - LED bulb conversion


DIY: Toyota (GT86 FT86) GT, GTS, 86, Scion FR-S, Subaru BRZ LED indicator blinker and flasher upgrade




The day after we picked up the car, it went to Solar Style window tinting to get paint/interior protection and some custom tint. Next it went to Option 1 Garage for a set of coilovers (BC Racing, later switched to MCA) and rims.










Then the car went to Audio Express. Hertz kindly supplied us with some awesome audio gear (amp, splits and sub), and Chris (Audio Express) installed it all along with a reverse camera, and the TPMS system:
















Then came the TRD bodykit from Import Monster, which was fitted by Cammo at Cameron's bodyworks:


kit1 copy.jpg







DIY guide for TRD spoiler installation here: DIY - TRD Spoiler installation, pictorial guide





We were approached by MCA Suspension who wanted to test some new suspension on the car, so Josh Coote, put together a nice package for us. We currently have MCA Red suspension on it (although it is in the blue housing at the moment). With this suspension in it, Josh took the car around lakeside for testing, and we were pretty happy with the 1.03 lap times, for an otherwise stock car.





We then sourced some Cusco strut braces via Jesse Streeter in Japan, and fitted them:






DIY Guide for cusco braces here:  Installation of Cusco Strut braces (pics)




Next the engine needed addressing.. Stock the car made 108rwkw, here is a stock dyno sheet:





It was always going to need more power, so we grabbed one of the first AVO turbo kits available in Australia, from "Car Mods Australia". This was fitted by Option 1 Garage over the course of a day.









While we were at it, we got the Invidia and Perrin exhaust parts from CarmodsAustralia as well:









When adding a turbo (extra heat), it's always good to upgrade the cooling system, so we got a HKS oil cooler from "Northshore Toyota" (a vendor on here).





We also upgraded the brakes to AP Racing:





AP Racing vs stock:





Fitted (by option 1 garage):








Not much changed on the car for a while due to work commitments and delays in supplies of parts. Due to not fitting the catch can/PCV we held off from taking the car to the track since it has been turbocharged, as we had still been using the vehicle for daily driving.


During the downtime, we purchased a spare motor which was stripped down so the engine builder (JHH Engineering) could assess what would and would not be needed. It was not long before it was revealed that these are an open deck block, and would easily throw a rod through the side at the power levels we wanted if we did not strengthen it. We were initially going to just jam some forged rods/pistons in but JHH strongly advised that we should sleeve the block as well as run forged low comp pistons and forged rods.


Here are some pics of the stock engine/head/pistons:











Not much happened from here on, but  we did a few minor tweaks like add this CaFi 62100 head unit that interfaces with the OBD2 port on the car, as well as have wifi/3g capabilities to surf the net and facebook while driving :P










Then we change the tail lights to Valenti SG Smoked:




DIY Guides for the valenti mods here:


DIY: Modifying the VALENTI to for parking "V" AND brake FLASHER (F1 race style)


DIY: Installing aftermarket (Valenti) FOG/Reverse lights (remove/refit)





We were a little bored of the old wheels so we figured since the new rims we wanted were 19s, the old Achilles 123S tyres could say goodbye in style:


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We switched the old rims to these wicked looking concave CC03's.. They measure 19x9.5 and make the car look more aggressive:










Update: 12-Oct-2013: The car is due to go into Cameron's Bodyworks to get the widebody kit fitted in 2 weeks. This is going to be molded in (not tacked on).



We are presently waiting on the engine to be finished, so that will most likely go in shortly after the wide body is fitted.




Updates to come shortly with the "good stuff" eg when the factory bodywork gets hacked off :S 



Update: 14-Oct-2013: Rocket Bunny kit finally arrived (took 6 months since date ordered argh!).



First thing you notice is just how deep the wing is!! It's like 50cm front to back, its so aggressive and massive haha


So as of next week, the cutting starts.. EEEK!!













Update: 22-Oct-2013: TRD kit has been removed, front guards and bars are now off.. The work is underway.. Eeek. Love the message from Cammo (at the panel shop). 











My new turbo manifold and parts of the bigger turbo upgrade have arrived.. ID1000 injectors, vband manifold, recirculating dump pipe, and a bunch of other goodies now added to the pile.



Update: 23-Oct-2013: First cuts to the car commence, no turning back now :S New inner guards will be made to mate to the widebody, ensuring that no dirt/dust/mud/rust can get into the guards. Rear windows removed as well, since half the car will need to be repainted.








































Video of the cutting click here:





Update: 24-Oct-2013: Inner guards have been mocked up and will be made and attached later (first pic shows this). Widebody guard bolted/riveted/glued onto the panel, panels being sanded and prepped ready to mold the widebody into the factory panels. New inner guard fabricated.





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  • RZ86, mikalow86, Dennis and 9 others like this

#19055 [QLD] 9am Sun 26 May 2013 | Brisbane-Nimbin-Brisbane Cruise

Posted by AndrewGTS on 22 May 2013 - 10:22 PM

Okay, here is the link to the final itinerary for Sunday - http://goo.gl/maps/OB5Qw


In a nutshell, we depart Eight Mile Plains Bus Station Carpark 'A' at 9:30am sharp, and head down the M1.


We take Exit 85 at Reedy Creek 'B' and turn right onto Stapely Drive, and then left onto Old Coach Road, and then hit the mountains.


The Gold Coast meeting point (first 15 min rest stop) is at Coplick Family Sports Park, Cnr Andrews Road & Tallebudgera Connection Road, Tallebudgera 'C'. Plenty of parking here. I recommend everyone commencing from there be there by no later than 10:15am, as we will be leaving 15 minutes after our arrival.


The second 15 min rest stop is at Masterson Park Upper Burringbar Road, Burringbar 'H', again, we will be leaving 15 minutes after our arrival.


The 1 hour lunch stop is at Riverside Drive, Tumbulgum 'L'. We will need to park single file along either side of this road.


Disregard my previous posts about packed lunches, etc. There is an excellent fish and chip shop here, and they have been forewarned of our arrival. Again, we will be leaving 1 hour after our arrival.


Please note BRZOOM (Black BRZ with personalised BRZOOM plates) will be the lead vehicle. As soon as you see BRZOOM depart each location, it is time to leave.


Upon the completion of the cruise (when we get back to the M1 at Robina - 'S') we will all split off home from there.


Massive thanks to BRZOOM - before he came on board this was literally a drive to Uki and back. BRZOOM created the entire itinerary from Mudgeeraba onwards.


Please note, some stretches of the road particularly in NSW have quite high speed limits, despite being quite testing. One section of the cruise is sign posted as 100kmh, despite being windier than Mt Mee, Nebo & Glorious combined.


Also, there are a number of single lane dual direction bridges (with oncoming traffic sharing the single lane) as we go down Springbrook, so take care down that section as well.


So drive safely and keep your wits about you.


Please note, there is a speed camera at both State border crossings, not that anyone will be speeding.


Lets do this!

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#14640 QLD 86/BRZ Fat Fitment Pre Meet

Posted by R4TED R on 13 March 2013 - 06:15 PM

This pre meet was better than the Fat Fitment meet due to we were all together & just had more fun. Looking forward to plan more meets/bbq as well.
Enjoy the photos
- Jono

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Posted by lame duck on 16 January 2013 - 02:22 AM

hey fellows,

I aint computer savvy and felt quite chuffed last night when, having "pressed" a few buttons, suddenly found that by scrolling i could alter the borders of the page making the page bigger or smaller - and so the print, i think.

Pleased as a rat with a gold tooth i realised i had stumbled on something i could brag about, and that, by telling others of my new found skills, would gain me notoriety and respect for such an important discovery.

Of much more importance however was the fact i could tell those unwashed persons who dared challenge me when once i had changed my font and without recognition of my new skills had the audacity to ask me to change the font as the very informative article i had written was apparently, to them, too hard to read!

Now no-one dare challenge me as i could point out to them what they could very simply do to increase the font in stature allowing even the simpleton to read.

I cringe as i must now seek your help as i find that i cant read the edges of the page as its too big and falls over the side into ether land and words of wisdom (from me to you) are lost forever to float in space with other works of the finest literatury standard - i am also stirred to an inquisitiveness of what others have written, knowing it wouldnt reach my standards of loquacity, but still someone may have been able to pique me with their scribblings.

Has anyone done the same and found a way back to make the page normal as i cant discover what i did, when i did it, so now i am done - help please.

I also have allowed my puter to dominate me in another area in that the keys either end of the bottom line will not work - that is the question mark and the key the other end that is used before oo and is a place where animals are kept - i would have thought that letter would not be called on much but even in this masterful missive i have had need of it and its only my clever skills that have allowed the avoidance of it - i come to you on fallen knee to ask what can i do to get back to a normality allowing the whole page to fit on the page and what can i do re the 2 functions missing on either end of the bottom line.

my mother warned me when a little boy (me-not her) to stop a certain habit else a calamnity would befall me - i should have stopped it!
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#22337 Camera install under $50

Posted by Pengasus on 06 July 2013 - 09:10 AM

There are lots of places to buy cameras and get them installed. However cost is $100+ just for the items and + labor.

Here is how you can do it yourself and quite easy at that i must add.

Items you'll need:

  • Parking camera - Purchase from eBay. A couple things to pay attention to:
    • Water resistance rating is called IP6X. X is a number that goes up to 8. Higher is better. Mine was IP66 hence i avoid pressure washer on it.
    • Must be PAL/NTSC compatible.
    • Obviously choose something that'll fit.

This is what i bought but by all means, get something you'll like. Also this one is aiming towards the bumper quite sharply.


  • Power cable harness for getting a 12v power output from the hidden power plug(explained below). I don't have a picture for this but again, purchased from David. 
  • 12V to DC cable - you can get one from any electronic shop.
    • Purchased mine from Jaycar for $3 or so. And it has a built in LED for all the times you run your car without a headunit :)



I'll only write up the parts for this install and skip the wire routing or removing the head unit which is already covered in many other write-ups and guides in this forum. If you have any questions or difficulty finding them though, send me a pm and i'll help as best as i can.

In our cars, there is a secondary head unit power outlet which is not used and is kind of hidden. You'll use this socket to get the power for your camera so that you won't need to cut into anything. You'll also need a separate harness for it which you can get from David.
Sorry i don't have a picture for it but you basically connect the harness you receive from David to the hidden plug and it'll give you 2 wires: + & -
You'll solder these on to the 12V to DC cable you bought from Jaycar(or whereever).
Then you'll be able to connect your camera power plug to the DC plug.
Blue LED one is from Jaycar(the one you soldered to the hidden power plug harness) and red one is from camera.
I recommend you solder it after you check the camera is working just in case you attach + to -.  Don't forget to tape it up with electrical tape afterwards.
Once you remove the head unit, plug with only 1 red wire attached is the one you'll need to attach the harness you received to.
Then plug it back into the HU again. So you end up with this:

You'll notice you have a red wire and a yellow jack that's left loose on the picture above.

If you have a camera that runs with 6V, you can skip the first part where you tap into the hidden power plug at the back. The loose red wire will give 6V to the camera. However, the cameras that run with 6V were all $100+ range. So if you followed the eBay route, ignore this paragraph and let that cable be :)

Yellow jack is where you'll connect you camera to.


So now power is connected.

Camera harness is connected to the headunit.

You'll have this:


Go ahead and plug in the yellow jack and start your car. Put in reverse gear. You should be able to see the picture from the parking camera.


If everything seems to be fine, unplug the camera and route the power and video cables from foot well.


Then reconnect the cables and reinstall your head unit. All there is left to do is to

  • route the cables to the back
  • remove the plastic piece from the trunk lid and install the camera
  • connect the cables from the camera to the cables you routed from the head unit.

A good guide on how to do the rest:



I hope this helps to all those who are in the same boat with me.


"Want a parking camera but don't want to pay too much"

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#20483 Build your own RC86

Posted by Caldine on 10 June 2013 - 11:39 AM

Toyota NZ have released their new website for sales on the RC86 platform . You can customise  / build to your own spec . Take a look here . http://www.the86.co.nz/86RC/


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#18338 forum issue

Posted by hawk77ft on 13 May 2013 - 02:51 PM

It seems that I can't post, answer to emails all since last night. Is everyone experiencing the same thing? I don't have ANY issue with other forums.
I am using my phone to write this.
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